I just returned from a trip to Gaoxiong (Gao1xiong2). It was one of the more enjoyable days in recent memory. Gaoxiong is a port located between the southern most cities of Taiwan and Tainan. Its port has attracts substantial capital and goods, making it not only Taiwan’s second largest city, but also designed with modernity as a framework: a new MRT system (subway), high-speed rail station, wide roads, buses, impressive buildings, museums, sidewalks, and a plethora of parks make up its urban. The climate is hot and humid, even by Taiwanese standards.
My previous trips to Gaoxiong were for business and were less than enjoyable: I was met with construction, dirt, and unbearably hot weather. This time, I left with an optimistic outlook: my friend had planned the trip and her practical approach ensured a good time. We left Tainan around 10:00 AM. Our plan was to catch the 10:30 train to Gaoxiong, then visit some parks and have lunch in the early afternoon. Later we would go to Middle Mountain University, followed by a night market on an island a short ferry ride away.
Our late morning and early afternoon was spent walking around visiting parks and spots of significance. We took the new MRT, and I was struck by its no-nonsense approach; no drinking or eating in the station or in the train, tickets take the form of composite coins that must be deposited upon exit for reuse, and everything is accurately translated into English. There are outer doors that open into the trains in tandem with the trains’ doors, and the outer doors are composed of semi-transparent reflective glass, so while you are waiting for the train you are routinely confronted with your own reflection.
After lunch and a bit of waiting around, we took a bus to Middle Mountain University (zhong1 shan1da4xue2). The entrance into the campus is a quarter-mile-long tunnel that cuts through a hill. Once through the tunnel you will step into a geographical interface between mountains, the coast, and the university’s campus. A genuinely wonderful place; lots of trees, basketball courts that are next to the beach, forested hills, and trails and steps leading to the tops of hills, from which comprehensive views of the campus, the wider area, and Gaoxiong at large can be enjoyed. We walked around the campus a bit while eating some bread-like snacks. Eventually we came onto a road bordered on its left by a vegetation covered hill and to its right by some brush followed by the beach. From our left, out of the brush covered hill, walked a monkey in the direction of my friend. Its gait was direct and swift. It crossed the street and was about six feet from my friend when she threw her bread to the side. The monkey realigned its path towards the bread, ate it immediately, and then stared at us. Some people shouted out hou2zi, the Chinese word for monkey, and began to take its picture. I’ll never forget the Chinese word for monkey!
After our encounter with the monkey, and a bit of sightseeing from the top of a hill, we walked down into a bay-side district. The district is built around a horseshoe-shaped dock, and is dense in terms of people and buildings. A ferry terminal was built at one end of the dock. Leading away from the ferry terminal is a street that was filled with scooters and pedestrians. Both sides of the street were taken up by restaurants, tea shops, and the like. We sat down and had dinner on that street: a variety of edibles that were cooked in a brown colored soup; the edibles are taken out of the soup and served on a plate; the soup is not consumed. I’m not sure what it’s called, but since eating it I have spotted it around Tainan. After dinner we took a ferry ride to a nearby island. The view from the ferry was nice: Gaoxiong’s port and downtown were easily visible as well as the community immediately surrounding us. The view of downtown from this vantage point reminded me of the view of Seattle’s downtown from Alki beach.
At the moment of exiting the ferry, we arrived at an entrance to a bustling night market. At this time it was fairly dark, and the lights of the market glowed intensely. The sight combined with the ocean air was relaxing. It was one of those moments when I was happy to be in Asia. This night market is different from the others I have visited in that it is on a road. This made for a borderless mixture of pedestrians, traffic, and road-side shops. After walking for awhile I became quite uncomfortable and overwhelmed by the traffic, noise, and combination of dark and light, especially the lights of oncoming traffic. Not knowing how to communicate my feelings in Chinese, I just walked to a beach ahead of us and we watched the ships waiting for their turn to enter Gaoxiong’s main port. We walked around a bit more, and then took varies modes of transportation back to Tainan.
Louis
5.4.08